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Jennifer

Decorative Signs: Stenciling Techniques

Some of the decorative signs I started painting with dry brushing techniques and stamping rollers in the previous post are ready for stenciling! I am going to do two different techniques, a dry brush stencil and a foil transfer. See the previous posts in this series: Base Coats and Adding Texture.

On two signs I’m going to dry brush stencil the words “Love” and “Faith.”

You will need:
Word Stencils (Stencil Garden #877)
Stencil Brushes
Paint
Tape
Rulers

Dry Brush Technique:
Start by centering your stencil on your work. Using two quilters rulers which are see-through, one on each side, can help center the stencil easily by allowing you to just move the stencil until the distance from each side is the same. Once you’re happy with the centering left and right, center from top to bottom and then tape down the stencil.

Wet your stencil brush with paint, then swirl on to a foam plate or palette, then dry it again on paper towel. It might seem like you’re taking all the paint off the brush, but this is what you want to keep the sharp lines of your stencil. Use this dry brush to stipple or pounce the color into the void of your stencil. Stencil brushes are round with a blunt cut and have stiff bristles which is necessary for traditional stenciling technique.

You can choose to pounce on the color or swirl it on, but a light color over dark surface will work better with the pounce instead of swirl. You can check on your coverage by lifting up a corner of the stencil, making sure to hold the stencil in place with one hand. Chalk paints will dry lighter, so keep that in mind, but also you can’t keep going back over it or you’ll start to remove some of the paint. You will need to let it dry before doing a second coat.

I used Modern Masters Silver Metallic Paint for the word Faith. I used the same technique as with the word Love, putting a bit of paint on my plate and swirling it into the brush and then wiping it on a paper towel before pouncing it into the stencil areas.

Now these signs just need some time to dry, then I’ll put on a finish coat to protect my work.

 

 

 

On a third sign I’m going to put the word “Hope” on it with decorative foil. Hope is always something good to have! This board was first finished with a diamond pattern and stamping roller which creates a really great textured background.

You will need:
Stencils (Stencil Garden #877)
Foil Adhesive
Foil
Stencil Brush
Scissors

Tip: My ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive is simple to clean up, water soluble. Your stencil will get some adhesive on it during this process, but it will wash off easily.

Start by centering your stencil and taping it down. Using the foil adhesive and a stencil brush, pounce on the adhesive through the stencil. Keep the brush rather dry so the adhesive will not bleed under the stencil. Stipple the foil adhesive over the stencil twice to make sure it has good coverage.

The foil adhesive will wash off with water, don’t worry that you’re ruining your stencil!

Remove stencil carefully, and give the adhesive time to dry. Don’t rush to transfer. With the foil adhesive you aren’t limited to a window of time. You can leave it for days and even weeks before transferring the foil!

Once your adhesive has had enough time to dry, use scissors to cut your foil to size. With the metallization on the back, lay the foil over your project. Using a soft cloth, rub the foil and then pull back just a part to take a peek at your work.

If you want to transfer a lot of foil, use a scrubber brush. You can control how much foil is transferred by varying the pressure you use on the brush. Once you’re happy with the amount of transfer, peel off the film. Top coats are a must when foils have been used to protect the finish and cover any adhesive that hasn’t adhered to foil.

I hope you have enjoyed this series of projects! As always, we love to see what you’ve made with metallic foils and stamping rollers!

Decorative Signs Project Series:
1. Base Coats
2. Adding Texture
3. Stenciling Techniques

 

 

Decorative Signs Project: Adding Texture

This is the second in a series on decorative signs. See the first post here: Base Coats.

Another option for adding texture to a project is by using texture medium and stamping rollers. Continuing work on the Decorative Signs that I started in my previous post, I’m going to make two more that have a raised texture background to add interest.

You will need:
ArtsSyVille Texture Medium
Mini Trowel
Stamping Rollers
Board
Chalk Paint
ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive
Metallic Foils

Apply Texture Medium:
You don’t need to do anything to prep your board, you can put ArtsSyVille Texture Medium right on top of bare wood. It has really good bonding, so you can skip priming. I have two mini trowels I like to use for this, one is 4.5” and the other is 6.75” both are great sizes for small projects like this.

The texture medium is lightweight and creamy. I just use a stirring stick to put some on my project and then use the trowels to smooth it out. Use just just a slight angle when pulling the trowel across and work to minimize lines in the medium. You can also control the pressure of the trowel to get the desired depth of product. It doesn’t need to be thick! One sixteenth to one eighth of an inch is enough for the stamping roller to imprint in it.

Once you have the texture medium covering your board, use your trowel to remove excess product to get it down smooth. Clean up the edges, I just use my finger to do this, and then you’re ready to roll.

 

Tip: The texture medium could also be put down with a brush, that would create a texture because the brush lines will be visible.

 

Using the stamping roller to create texture:
I’m using the “Between the Vines” roller on one of my boards. Just roll your chosen stamping roller down the project, slow and steady. If you aren’t happy with the first try, trowel it out and do it again!  I centered three of the vines on the “Between the Vines” stamp across the length of the board and then rolled it again through the width to create a box pattern. I just eyeballed the spacing, but I think it turned out pretty great!

Use your finger to clean up the edges of your project. Once the texture medium dries, you would need to sand down any of these rough edges, so it’s much easier to take care of it while it’s still wet.

You will need to do some sanding on the design once it has dried to clean up any peaks and ridges. A smooth finish is critical when going back over the project with stencils or foils.

On another board I’m going to use one of my favorites, a diamond pattern that creates a linear elongated diamond shape.

The texture medium will take a few hours to dry, then you can sand it to take care of the peaks that are made when rolling the pattern rollers through the texture medium.

Adding design with a stamping roller:
When the texture medium on the board with the diamond shape was dry and sanded down, I painted it, then I added a little more interest with a stamping roller. I used Debi’s DIY Paints in Seaglass with a Chrysanthemum pattern roller.

 

 


Decorative Signs Project Series:
1. Base Coats
2. Adding Texture
3. Stenciling Techniques

Decorative Signs Project: Base Coats

 

Creating your own statement signs is a great way to experiment with different texture techniques and try out different roller designs. Inexpensive wood planks are used so the imperfections can be highlighted with paint to create a rustic, distressed feel.

I’ve used a color palette in shades of blue to give just a little bit of depth to the background while allowing the words I’ve stenciled on top to pop. When using chalk paint, allow each layer to dry thoroughly before moving on to the next color, so this project will take a couple hours to complete.

You will need:
Boards, pine is inexpensive and has texture
Chalk Paints, I recommend DIY Paint by Debi’s Design Diary
Art Wash Brushes
Domed Brushes
Spray Bottle of Water
Cheesecloth
Foam plate or palette
Paper Towels
Tray
Glad Press n Seal

Base Coat:
Cover the edges and front of your board in a single color. I like using Art Wash brushes for this because they pull and push the paint easily, allowing the finish to come together smoothly, even over the uneven surface of the wood. Allow this coat of paint to dry. The two base colors I have chosen are Hey Sailor and Mermaid Tail.

Dry Brushing:
This technique pulls out the texture and imperfections of your board and really gives depth to your finished piece. Dry brushing is best done with a domed brush or any stiff bristle brush. These brushes have stiffer bristles in a flat domed shape. They can stand a bit of pressure and won’t lose hair in the process. Brushes that are too soft won’t move the paint around well, you just want it to grab on to bits of the surface.

Start by dipping your brush in the paint and then swirl the paint on to a palette or foam plate. Really work it in. Then rub the brush on a paper towel. You want to make sure it’s dry. Now you can start working the paint over the surface of your piece.  Dry brushing is just meant to “highlight” the surface and create depth/texture.  I’ve used a combination of three colors on top of the background during this dry brushing stage. I chose colors in the blue family, but also a warm red, which when mixed with the background color creates a nice purple tone.

Keep your brush dry. The drier the brush, the more control you will have over the color. As each layer of paint dries, the texture will stand out more and you can decide if you want to keep going.

TIP: Try taking a picture of your work and evaluating the photo. You’ll get a different view that can help you decide to keep working or move on to the next step!

Once you have worked in your mix of colors, wet a piece of cheesecloth with a spray bottle of water and rub it lightly over your piece to blend the colors. Any areas you aren’t happy with can be rubbed out in this same way. Let your dry brushed layer dry.

Adding design with a stamping roller:
Stamping rollers create a continuous design that can really add interest to your project. Our stamping rollers are 7” wide which covers a standard plank of wood with a bit of room to spare, making this a perfect first project to get comfortable with the stamping roller.

I like to cover a cafeteria tray with Press n Seal wrap and use this to load the foam part of the roller. It makes clean up really easy! Pour a bit of paint onto your tray and spread it out with a brush. Before loading the foam part of your roller, give the roller a quick spritz of water from your spray bottle. Not enough to soak it, but this bit of moisture will help the roller pick up the paint.

TIP: If your roller has spots that didn’t get completely loaded, use a brush to go over those areas of the foam

I keep the foam roller in the outermost holes while loading, moving it back when I’m ready to add the pattern roller. When your foam roller is ready to go, move it to the inner set of holes so your pattern stamp can be placed on the outside. Give the pattern roller a few rolls on a clean sheet of paper to transfer the paint to the design. Now you’re ready to carefully roll your design across the plank. I chose colors that create a tone-on-tone feel for the background of my signs. Nothing with too much contrast so it doesn’t take away from the words which I will stencil on later.

Let this layer of paint dry and then it will be ready to stencil!

Decorative Signs Project Series:
1. Base Coats
2. Adding Texture
3. Stenciling Techniques

DIY Foil Pumpkins for Fall Decor

Want to add some bling to your fall decor? How about covering pumpkins in foil? You can use craft pumpkins or real pumpkins, real pumpkins will last approximately two months if you don’t cut them open. I also suggest you paint real pumpkins first, I recommend Debi’s Design Diary DIY Paints.

In this tutorial I’m using craft pumpkins and I did not paint them first.

SUPPLIES
Pumpkins (real or craft pumpkins)
ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive
APS Foil
Brushes
APS Glitter
ArtsSyVille Glass Bead Gel

Start with ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive and coat your pumpkin while holding the stem. I prefer using an Art Wash Brush for this step. You want an even coat, not too thick, but not too thin. The foil adhesive will go on with a milky white color, but it will dry completely clear. I set my pumpkin on top of an open bucket to allow it to dry so the least amount of surface was touching the bucket. You want it to dry to a firm tack, this could take anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple hours, depending on the humidity where you live. You can even allow it to dry overnight, there’s no risk of waiting too long. Foil Adhesive is water soluble, very easy clean up.

Artistic Painting Studio FoilsOnce your adhesive has dried long enough, cut a few pieces of foil about 12-15” wide. I used two different colors on one of my pumpkins, copper and bronze. Set your pumpkin on a clean surface far enough away from your foils so they don’t stick before you are ready to use them!

Instead of laying the foil on the surface of the pumpkin, I bunched up the foil, being sure that all the film is on the inside so no film will adhere to the pumpkin, and pounced it on the surface of the pumpkin. This gives the pumpkin a nice textured appearance. As you’re doing this and the foil is being pulled off the film, open the bunched up foil and find a new section to use. You might need to use a couple pieces of foil. Once you’ve pounced the foil around the whole pumpkin, switch to the next color. This method is not going to give complete coverage, but it will give a great dappled texture.

To accomplish more complete coverage, lay the foil over the pumpkin and use a stiff brush to release the foil. Pumpkins with deep ridges will have the foil adhered mostly to the high areas unless you really work it into the crevices. If you have trouble getting tight areas, like under the stem, try balling up a paper towel and using that to rub the foil.

If an area is still really sticky, that means there’s still a lot of adhesive in that area, so go back over it again with some new foil.

Now it’s time to glitter! I covered my tray with Press n Seal wrap so clean up will be easy later and I can save any of the glitter that doesn’t stick to the pumpkin. I used a glitter color called Rich Chocolate, I loved how the dark glitter looks really rich with the copper and bronze foil. With the pumpkin on the tray, I just scooped glitter on the top of the pumpkin and into the low areas. Once I had a good amount of glitter on, I shook it and tapped it a bit and even used a soft brush to thin it out the glitter and move it into the crevices. The glitter will stick everywhere there is uncovered foil adhesive. After letting it sit for a bit, you can gently tap the pumpkin to get more of the unsecured glitter off the pumpkin.

On the second pumpkin I used Seafoam and Rose Gold foils. I cut pieces of the Seafoam foil, approximately 8” lenghts. I needed five of these pieces to cover my medium sized pumpkin.

Before applying the foil, I crunched it first, I feel like this gives a little better transfer, but then I just laid it on the pumpkin and used my scrub brush to get the foil to transfer. Because the pumpkin is not an even surface it’s going to take quite a bit of work to get good coverage. Use a rag or smaller brush to get down into the valleys.

Odd shapes are challenging and you will need to use more foil than you think so that you don’t move the foil to a new area and have an empty area of the film adhere to the surface which can be difficult to remove. Try different transfer methods, a stiff brush, a toothbrush or even your fingers can get the foil to adhere.

If you find that there’s an area that’s not taking the foil at all, if it’s dry to the touch, that area was missed with foil adhesive. You’ll have to go back and touch those spots up with adhesive, let it dry and then reapply the foil.

I didn’t want the seafoam foil to cover completely. Once I worked my way around the whole pumpkin I moved to the second color, Rose Gold. I used this to fill in the empty spots. I had to scrub a bit harder to get this foil to transfer in those spots since the adhesive wasn’t as strong after going over it once.

At the top of this pumpkin I put glass bead gel. ArtsSyVille Glass Bead Gel has tiny glass beads suspended in an acrylic medium. I used a small brush and just painted them on around the stem and out into the crevice areas just at the top of the pumpkin. Don’t let it get too thick, you want just a level row of beads so that it will dry crystal clear. Don’t force dry these, either, allow them time to dry naturally so the gel medium doesn’t haze. It can take a few hours depending on humidity and how thick your application is.

Putting a clear coat over top of your pumpkin is a great idea, especially if you don’t have 100% coverage with foil. The clear coat will make sure there’s no sticky adhesive still on the pumpkin where it could grab on to dirt or other things you don’t want stuck to your pumpkin. Semi-Gloss Final Coat is a great product for this purpose.

I hope you enjoyed this project! If you give it a try yourself, please share your photos on our Facebook page.

A Year Long Transformation!!!

I always have high hopes when I find a great piece of furniture to transform!  LOL  But, then reality sets in and I discover that my work schedule is just so busy, that I don’t have much time to paint!

I found this piece (guess is was a China hutch at one point) at least a year ago – thought it would be wonderful for my office and I would use it as a book shelf.  The current book shelf I have is falling apart and needs to be replaced!!!

Whatever paint that had been used on it was just scratching off – so I decided to take it back down to the wood……You know I LOVE to sand – NOT!!!

By the way – those wonder little dollies that the legs are resting on can be found at Harbor Freight – they come in two different styles and I own both!!!

Dollies for furniture

Now, the time that had already passed from the date I brought this to the shop, to the time I started to sand it was over a month or so…….so much for getting anything done fast!

Hutch section

Time to start at least the drawers.  I created my Hammered Metal finish using the Texture Medium and Ostrich Roller.  Tape off the drawer fronts to isolate the area, then trowel or brush on the Texture Medium.  While the Texture Medium is still wet, roll the Ostrich roller through it several times (I like the messy look).  Just allow the Texture Medium to dry and then sand down any of the peaks or rough areas.

Texture Medium & Ostrich Roller
Products used

Once the drawers were dry and sanded – then I painted two coats of the Modern Masters Antique Copper. After the Paint was dry, then I added a layer of glaze to create depth – Modern Masters Wall glaze and Tobacco Brown Colorant.

Textured, Painted and Glazed
Drawers Finished

All the drawers are finished – now it’s time to tackle the rest of this piece……LOL

Adding some color!

Finally adding some color to the base section – I started this in September of 2016 and I hate to admit that it’s April of 2017 and I’m still working on the same piece of furniture!!!  Talk about being a little slow…..

This was painted with DIY Paint Seaglass by Debi’s Design Diary – I love their Chalky paints.  Easy to use and great coverage.

Hammered Metal finish with Embossed Stencil

The ends of the cabinet were created with the same technique as the drawer fronts and I just added the Hampton Medallion stencil embossed with the Texture Medium (TM is wonderful for embossing stencils)!!!

Top of cabinet

I created a “Wet Blending” technique using both the Seaglass and Mermaid Tail DIY Paints and then stenciled with Bronze Foil!

Bottom section completed!

Bottom section of this cabinet finally completed – I think it’s at least June at this point!!!

I used my Foil Adhesive and Bronze Foil to transform the hardware!!!  This was soooo fast and easy!  Just apply one layer of Foil Adhesive and allow to dry to a firm tack and then transfer foil – I didn’t try for 100% transfer, I liked a little of the original color coming through.  Top coat to protect!

The massive hutch finally started – one coat of primer done!!!  This piece is really heavy!

It’s sometime in July and the hutch is moving along.  The back section of each “cubby” was created with the Hammered Metal finish – Texture Medium and Ostrich Roller – apply the first layer of paint.  Modern Masters Antique Copper – applied two coats!

Just about finished with the painting!!!  First coat of DIY Paint, Seaglass – love this stuff!!!

The complete hutch/cabinet – yes, I really do finish things!  I have discovered that if there is NO deadline for something, it takes me a year to do it……..that’s really not funny but it is what it is!

For complete details on the most of the steps to this project, watch the videos posted below – I did tape most of the process!!!

Hope you enjoy watching the process and my goal for my next project is that it only takes 6 months and not a complete year!!!  Next project in line is my dinning room table – hoping to start in October!!!  Let’s see how that works out 🙂

Blessings to all,

Jenn

 

 

Transform your Concrete into a Faux Wood Floor!!!

I always have tons of ideas running through my head – just not always enough time in the day to execute them all!!!  I’m sure most of my creative friends are in the same place – always more ideas than time!

But, I have to say that being a regular guest on Hometalk TV has pushed me to get a few of these things accomplished! Nothing like a deadline hanging over your head and having to go LIVE showing thousands of people how to do something……if something goes wrong, you have to “wing” it!!!  LOL

Well, my last Hometalk TV Live was really fun and I finally finished something that I had been wanting to do around my studio!  Still way too many white walls and plain floors around here……:(

The natural concrete floor through most of the studio.

I had been wanting to use one of my Rollers on the concrete floor and decided to section off an area and create a Faux Wood Grain White Washed floor!!!

Supplies needed.

There is not much needed for this project – just the Stamping Roller Handle Applicator (which comes with the foam applicator), Wood Grain Roller and Converter Bar.  Then you can pick the paint type and color you would like to work with. I used the General Finishes Chapin Gray Chalk Style paint – I wanted a matter finish and was needing something that would dry fast!

OH – don’t forget we do need to prepare the surface a little……..I swept the floor, got down on my hands and knees and cleaned with wet rags (boy was it dirty) – did this a couple of times!!!  Then I mixed a solution of 50/50 water and vinegar to “etch” the surface – this helps open the pours of the concrete and will allow the paint to adhere better.    Then I let the floor dry for a couple of days.

The next thing is to load the Roller and my best way to show you is to have you watch my video that walks you through the process of loading the roller:

This was fun and easy – it only took about 10 minutes to roll the entire area (10’x6′) and then about 30 minutes to hand paint some of the detail areas where the roller couldn’t fit.

I just used a Liner Brush and a little watered down paint to fill in the areas along the wall edges where the roller didn’t get close enough too or if the pattern skipped a little (but I personally love the imperfections that were left behind)!!!

Adding the finishing details with a Liner Brush.

Well – if you know me, I just couldn’t leave it as just a wood grained floor!  I had to pull out a stencil and create a little more Charm!!!

Hampton Medallion Stencil.

I used one of my all time FAVS – Hampton Medallion stencil with some Modern Masters Metallic paint in Teal!

Adding some stencil pattern.

I LOVE my new floor – so much Charm has been added to this area!!!

One last thing – need to protect all this beautiful floor!  I plan to use BM Stays Clear and put on at least three coats……we get all lot of traffic through this area!

Let the Fun of my Decorative Rollers enhance your projects – walls, floors, furniture, cabinetry – unlimited possibilities!  Check out all the fabulous patterns available on my website for Roller Heaven!!!

Here is the complete application of the process while on Hometalk TV Live!

Watch the final details and stenciling!

Blessings,

Jenn