Today I am working on another fabulous table runner to help spark some creativity for you to create a “show-stopper” holiday centerpiece for your next party. Now, I will have two different options to choose from for all the holiday parties this season!

This table runner is a little different than the last one I created. This time I am going to be using multiple techniques on this table runner, including stenciling and painting.

Stenciling is such a fun and simple way to express your creativity. If you have never stenciled before, head to this BLOG or you can purchase my Stipples & Swirls Instructional Stenciling Video for only $5 to get more extensive training on the art of stenciling.

Alrighty, let’s get started with this DIY Project!

Step 1 – Prepping Your Table Runner!

First, you will want to get out your iron. This will help the linen table runner lay a little bit flatter and make it easier to paint and stencil. Next, you will want to spray a thin piece of cardboard with some Stick It Stencil Spray. This adhesive is repositionable, which makes it perfect for this project. Stick It will help to keep the table runner flat and keep it from moving around while you are painting and stenciling. You will need to respray your cardboard after 1 or 2 uses to keep it sticking properly. I would highly recommend spraying it outside to eliminate the fumes and toxins indoors. (You don’t want to be breathing this stuff in!)

Once you have the cardboard sprayed and your table runner smoothly laid out, you are ready to get started painting!

Step 2 – Let’s Get Painting!

Next, you will start by painting the outer edge of the table runner. I am going to be using my favorite “chalk type” paint DIY Paint in the color Apothecary. You can grab some DIY Paint HERE. To get the “washed” look I was going for, you will start by watering down the paint. Make sure you grab enough paint to finish the entire project so that your “wash” is the same throughout the entire table runner. Grab a paper towel to see how diluted your color is. If it is not diluted enough, then you can add a little more water to dilute it more. This mixture is about 70% water and 30% DIY Paint. You will want to use a stiff bristled brush, this way you can scrub it into the fabric. You can grab a Filbert Brush HERE. This type of brush also allows you to create a straight line along the stitching. Since we are using very watered down paint, it will take about 24 hours to dry. Allow this to dry overnight before you move on to the next step.

Step 3 – Now You Are Ready To Stencil!

You will want to continue to use your cardboard sprayed with Stick It, but you will also want to tape down your stencil as you move along your table runner.

Start creating a “background” using your checkboard stencil in the middle of the table runner. I wanted to use a lighter color since I am keeping this stencil more in the background, so I went with the colors Bleached Sand and Light Buttermilk by Americana. (You can use any colors you prefer!)

I also mixed in a little bit of Fabric Medium to allow the paint from getting too stiff and it also allows your fabric to wash better if you plan on washing your table runner. (I highly recommend dry cleaning your table runner.) You will want to “offload” some of the paint onto a paper towel so that you are working with a mostly dry brush. Fabric can be a little more forgiving than a regular project, but you definitely don’t want to be working with too much paint on your brush. Allow drying completely before moving onto your next step.

Step 4 – Adding All The Extras!

I decided I wanted to add a little something extra, so I am using my Holly Vine stencil. This is a super cute two layer stencil design. You can purchase it HERE. The easiest way to figure out where you want to place the design without using the registration marks is to layer them up and place it where you think it looks good. Then you will tape it down.

Now to the stenciling! I am using Americana Paints in Napa Red, Plantation Pine, and Burnt Umber. I am also using some Fabric Paint Medium mixed in once again. Once you load your brush, you will then want to “offload” most of that paint onto a paper towel creating a Dry Brush technique. To create some shading, you will want to go over the whole leaf section and then build a little more color along the edges. This creates some dimension in the stencil. Reload your brush as you run out and then make sure you “offload” again as well. I prefer to stencil layer 1 and then layer 2, and so on. I think it makes it much easier to line up, rather than doing all layer 1s around the border and then layer 2s. Nothing has to be perfect and you should line up the stencil how you see fit!

Final Thoughts

I absolutely loved creating this beautiful table runner for my upcoming holiday gatherings! I hope this has inspired you to get creative and make your own table runner this season. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out! Lastly, if you do end up making a table runner, please share! I would love to see what y’all create!

Are you more of a visual learner?? Check out the full video tutorial below!

Hi everyone! You know what time it is… It’s time to decorate your Christmas Tree!! Today I am going to show you how to make your own DIY Christmas Ornaments and your own Stamping Roller Table Runner 🙂

I am going to be using air-dry molding clay that takes about 24 hours to harden. You can grab some here: https://amzn.to/2QnKjWs

Let’s get started…

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 DIY Christmas Ornaments

Step 1 – Molding Clay!

You will start out by tearing off some molding clay. To prevent it from sticking to any surface, I decided to work on a serving tray covered in Press’n’Seel. I even wrapped my rolling pin in Press’n’Seel to prevent it from sticking as I rolled out my molding clay. Now you will go ahead and roll out the clay like you are rolling out cookie dough! I rolled the dough to about ⅛ of an inch but you can leave the clay a little thicker if you’d like to.

Step 2 – Let’s Roll!

After you have rolled out a chunk of clay, you will want to roll through with one of my Decorative Art Rollers. You will want to use a little bit of pressure as you roll through so that it leaves a nice impression into the clay. The first roller I use in this video is one of the new patterns I just got in, Mermaid Tail. I have about 40 different options available on my site. You can find them at: https://shop.artisticpaintingstudio.com/collections/decorative-art-rollers

Step 3 – Cookie Cutters!

After the pattern is rolled through your clay, you are going to want to grab your cookie cutters! Again, just press into your clay like you would with cookie dough. Wiggle the cutters a little bit to separate the cutter from the excess clay.

If you rolled out enough clay, you may be able to cut out a couple of shapes. After you have cut out your shapes, you can remove the excess clay. Save the excess to reuse and reroll out to make more shapes. I got the cookie cutters I am using from Hobby Lobby. You can also snag some here: https://amzn.to/2QmI5qh

Step 4 – Hanging Your Ornaments!

You won’t be able to hang these beautiful ornaments on your Christmas Tree without this step! After removing the excess clay, you will want to make sure you add a little hole in the top of each of your ornaments so that you can hang them. I was able to use one of my stencil brushes to cut out a tiny hole in the top of each ornament. Since not everyone will have one of those lying around, you can really use anything around your house: like a pencil, straw, toothpick, etc.

Step 5 – Dry Time!

Wait for the clay to dry! The instructions say 24 hours, but you can speed up the process a little by placing them next to a fan, portable heater, or even baking them @ 200 degrees.

Step 6 – Paint & Decorate!

Now it’s time to paint and decorate your ornaments! This part of the creation is completely up to you. I painted each ornament with a base coat before adding extra details. Then I used DIY Paint by Debbie’s Design Diary: Gypsy Green and Carnival Red.

After I have painted all of my ornaments a base color, I want to add some extra details. In the video, I add some red dots using an embossing tool and give the tree a decorated look. For the gift, I added some white paint to give it the look of being wrapped with a bow on top.

I hope you enjoyed the video, now it’s time to go create your own! Get your family together, grab the kids or grandkids and get creating!

Are you more of a visual learner?? Check out the entire step-by-step video below!

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 Stamping Roller Table Runner

Are you looking for something to make your table stand out this Christmas? Let’s get to making that happen with a custom, self-made Christmas Table Runner. Today I am going to show you how easy it is to make a beautiful table runner with one of my Patterned Paint Rollers (Chrysanthemum Pattern) and some burlap.

Step 1 – Grab your burlap!

I got my burlap from a local fabric store, but you can grab some here: https://amzn.to/2PzNiWJ Because burlap does not lay flat, you will want to tape down the edges. This way it won’t move too much as you are rolling.

Step 2 – Thin down your paint!

To allow the paint to soak into your roller sponge easier, we want to thin down our paint a little bit. Start by pouring out your paint into your paint tray. I am using DIY paint, Carnival Red, and a serving tray covered in Press’n’Seel in the video above. Don’t have a paint tray or Press’n’Seel?? You can grab them here: https://amzn.to/2QrW0v8 & https://amzn.to/2QpnjWV

After you have poured some paint into your tray, you will want to add a little bit of water. You can use a spray bottle or just add a little from a water bottle.

Step 3 – Load the Roller!

Before adding paint to your sponge roller, you will want to load the roller into the handle. You will want to place the sponge pin into one side, place that side onto the table and then lift the other side of the handle to get the other pin in.

I also like to spray my sponge with a little bit of water when loading it up with paint. Now grab your sponge roller and roll it through the paint.

Depending on the size of your project will determine how much paint you need to load onto the sponge.

Step 4 – Insert Patterned Roller and Test it Out!

In the video, I am using the Chrysanthemum roller. Again like adding the sponge, you will want to load the Patterned Paint Roller head by placing in the bottom pin first and then lifting and sliding in the other pin.

Now that the Handle is all loaded up, you will want to roll on some scratch paper to get the Patterned roller all loaded up. It doesn’t take much pressure when rolling with these Stamping Rollers because the blue rubber is a softer rubber. If you press too hard you may get the paint onto the base of the roller and not just onto the pattern.

Step 5 – Roll onto Burlap!

Now that everything is prepped, it’s time to roll! My biggest goal is to roll as straight as I can. On the first roll, I picked out a seam to follow and it worked out well. On my other rolls, I looked at my previous roll and tried to keep a consistent distance as I rolled down the table runner.

Wow, that was really easy. Once everything is prepped it only takes a few minutes to actually roll onto the burlap!

Are you more of a visual learner?? Check out the entire step-by-step video below!

 

I hope you enjoyed these fun and simple holiday tutorials!! Subscribe to my email list below to be the first to know when a new blog post is up 🙂

 

**This post contains affiliate links! 🙂

Painting & Foiling Christmas Blocks

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My first little project is creating Christmas blocks!!

I found these little blocks on Amazon. You can find them, HERE! I am thinking they will be perfect to scatter around the table setting for Christmas dinner or just scattering around in groups around the house!

How to make them:

Step 1 – Painting:

The first step will be painting the blocks. In the video, I am using Debbie’s Design Diary DIY Paint, a chalky based paint, in the color Carnival Red. This is the perfect Christmas red!

Painting blocks is a little tricky cause you have to hold them and paint. So I started out by painting each block on four sides while holding the top and bottom and leaving those sides unpainted for now.

After painting each block on the four sides, I let them dry for about 30 minutes. Once dry, I went ahead and painted the two unpainted sides.

Depending on the paint you use, you may need to go back over and paint on a second coat so that you have 100 percent coverage.

Step 2 – Design:

Deciding what you are going to put on the blocks will be the second step. Because the blocks I bought are pretty small, I decided to use the Holly Berries stencil from my stencil collection. If you would like to see all of the stencils I have for sale check out my website, HERE.

While most of the time stencils are used to be painted on, this time I decided to use them to add Foil Adhesive so I could come back and foil on the Holly Berries leaves!

I decided to use Metallic Silver foil so that it would pop nicely against the red paint. And after adding the foil, I would come back and emboss the berries with Metallic Gold paint from Modern Masters.

Step 3 – Foil Adhesive:

Now it’s time to apply the Foil Adhesive. For this, I decided to use a dry brush and a pouncing technique.

To apply the adhesive, you will want to start by swirling a little Foil Adhesive onto your brush. Then you will want to dab your brush a couple of times on a paper towel to create a dry brush.

Now you can pounce with your brush over the stencil openings. This is a great technique to use because it applies the adhesive evenly and it won’t leak under the stencil.

You will want to add two quick coats so that there is enough adhesive to get a good transfer!

I found it best to do three sides on each block at a time.

Now you need to let the adhesive dry and tack up for at a minimum of 10-15 minutes. The longer you wait for the better!

Step 4 – Applying Foil:

Let’s get to foiling! First, you will want to cut your foil into some smaller pieces so they are easier to manage. Then you will place the foil onto your block.

I started by trying to rub a rag and my finger over the foil to see how well it would transfer but it wasn’t quite enough. So I used my handy-dandy scrubbing brush! And it helped to get a full transfer (you could also try a toothbrush).

Along with the full transfer on the holly leaves, it added little speckles on the block. You can either leave those speckles, as I did, or you can rub them off using a rag.

Step 5 – Adding Berries:

Instead of using the stencil to add the berries, I decided to use an embossing tool. This tool is great for adding a dimension to a project!

The color I used on the berries is Metallic Gold from Modern Masters. I dipped my embossing tool into a little of the paint from the lid and then dabbed on three little berries which create raised dots.

You will probably want to do this step after you have transferred foils to all sides of your blocks because the paint will take longest to dry.

Are you a visual learner?? Check out the entire step-by-step video below!

 

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Creating an Easy Weathered Wood Finish

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Creating a super special Christmas present for my daughter, Ashley! She lived in Nashville, Tennessee for six years and just moved back to California, so I am going to paint this Tennessee wood cutout for her.

Step 1 – Texture Medium: 

First, we are going to get out some Texture Medium. You will want to put some on the surface of the wood and use your mini trowel to spread it 100% on the entire surface. You can always go back and clean the edges with your finger or sand them down later. It doesn’t have to be perfect!

For this project, we are going to use the Corduroy Tool, so you can leave the Texture Medium a little thicker. It can be closer to an 1/8 of an inch.

Step 2 – Corduroy Tool:

Now let’s grab our Corduroy Tool! This tool creates a beautiful broker Stria, which will help us create our Weathered Wood finish. You will take your Corduroy Tool and go back and forth across the Texture Medium to create a wood finish.

You will want to stay in straight lines with your Corduroy tool to create this look. If too much Texture Medium gets on your Corduroy Tool, you can pounce it back on your wood and then go back and forth to create the wood finish.

Step 3 – Sanding: 

Once your Texture Medium is dry, you will want to sand the edges. Dry time will take about an hour or so. You will want to smooth out the texture, so you don’t have any “highs”.

Step 4 – Glazing:

We are going to create a custom glaze color. I am going to use Golden Paintworks Glazing Medium and Modern Masters colorants. When you are starting to create a custom glaze color you will want to start with a smaller amount of glaze, about a 1/4 cup. This way you are not wasting any product! Add a little color at a time to reach the color you want. I usually use 1 cup of glaze to 3 tbs of colorant.

I am going to start with a darker umber and then add white to lighten it up.

Step 5 – Cheesecloth:

Grab a chip brush of your choice. If you need to invest in one, you can find one HERE. Dip your brush in a little bit of glaze and brush onto your piece of wood. A little goes a long way. Once your glaze is on, you will have a little “working time”. You will grab some cheesecloth and make a “pad” with your cheesecloth. Take your cheesecloth, and rub in the same direction as the Stria to make your finish as light or dark as you want.

Step 6 – Top Coat:

I am not going to top coat this project because it is not going to be something that is touched often. If it was something that was going to be touched more often I would definitely want to top coat the project.

Are you a visual learner?? Check out the entire step-by-step video below!

 

**This post contains affiliate links.

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Like most people, you probably have a piece of furniture or two lying around the house that could use a makeover. And today I want to show you how easy it can be for you to make it happen. 

Over the years some of my favorite projects have been when I am able to upcycle the furniture around my own home!! From custom dining room chairs for my two kiddos, to the living room coffee table and our nightstands, I have re-done a lot of the furniture around our house. 

The photo above is the Coffee Table makeover I did! I created a wonderful textured surface to the top using the Crocodile Roller and people have loved it. To learn more about this makeover, click here!

A project like the one above can seem a little daunting if you are just getting started with creating textured surface projects. But, today I want to show you truly how easy it can be to make your furniture to die for!

 

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Creating A Textured Surface  

 

Texture Medium Application

So… What is Texture Medium you ask? Texture Medium is a low VOC tintable plaster, or paste, that has a matte finish. I created this product to be used with Patterned Paint Rollers to create interesting textures and patterns on furniture, cabinetry, walls, and more.

To start, you will need a trowel or flat spatula. You could also use an old hotel key if you don’t have either of those.

Now, you will trowel on this marshmallow like paste to

your project. You will want it to be a 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch, so make sure you keep it on the thinner side. It should look similar to this photo.

 

Rolling Through the Texture

 

Before you start “rolling”, you will want to make sure your Texture Roller is spinning “freely” on the handle. If it isn’t rolling perfectly, take the roller head off and spray the metal part of the handle with a little pam or any greaser you have lying around the house. 

Once you are “freely” spinning, using your favorite Decorative Art Roller, you will roll through the Texture Medium to create your beautiful pattern.

If it doesn’t look exactly how you want it to, you can trowel back over and try again. But you have to remember that art isn’t perfect and that’s okay. Let your Texture Medium dry completely. This will take a couple of hours.

 

Sanding

Once your project is dry, you will see that some of the edges of the pattern will be slightly raised. We will want to knock those down with a little sanding. 

Using 150 grit sandpaper and a sanding block you will want to sand down the “highs” and “peaks” of the Texture Medium. If you want the pattern to be a little more subtle you can sand more.

 

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Create the Finish You Desire

 

At this point, it’s up to you where you take the project, so use your imagination!

For the purposes of this post we will keep it simple and easy. I am going to show you how you can paint right over the textured surface and how to add some distressing.

 

Paint with DIY Paint

 

Let’s start with painting your project. You will want to paint on one complete layer of paint. Any paint will work just fine but I prefer to use chalk based paints! 

My favorite Chalk Paint to use is Debbie’s Design Diaries DIY Paint. I have found this chalk paint to be great because it covers really well in one coat. Because we are going to distress this project, our painting doesn’t need to be perfect. Now you will need to allow the chalk paint to dry completely.

 

Distressing with Cheese Cloth

 

Once your project is dry, you are going to start the distressing process. You will create a little pad with the cloth and spray with some water. Cheesecloth is great because it has a little texture and will grab the pattern and remove some of the paint. This will bring the edges of the pattern out and expose them. How muchor how little you choose to distress is up to you! After you let it dry, you will see how the color changes considerably with chalk paint.

 

Waxing to Make the Finish Pop! 

 

Next, you will need clear wax, a glove, and some cheesecloth. You will want to grab some of the wax out with the cheesecloth and then rub on a foam plate to get the wax into the cloth. Then once your cheesecloth is ready, you will rub the surface in a buffing motion.

You will want to keep it thin when applying so it dries properly. If you are looking to have a thicker wax profile you will want to do it layer by layer. Again, as the surface drys, it will lighten up slightly. 

In the photo below you can see how well the wax and distressing have made the texture surface pop!   (photo before fully dry)

 

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Things You’ll Need:

• Fauxy Roller
• Texture Medium
• 150 Grit Sandpaper (affiliate link)
• Sand Block (affiliate link)
• DIY Paint
• Cheese Cloth

 

Final Thoughts

This is such a simple and easy technique that anyone can do no matter your skill level!

I hope this has inspired you to get creative and start using Texture Paint Rollers on your next project.

If you have any questions please feel free to reach out!

 

Here is my How-To video for you visual learners!

I have really been enjoying creating some fun “works of art” lately. I’m planning on having these “works of art” for sale on my website in the next few weeks and I will even be gifting a couple during this upcoming holiday season! 

I must have found a great price on these boards and picture frames because I discovered that I have a few of them… Not sure what I intended to do with all of them, but I’m sure having fun with them now!

The frame is cut from Pine and the center plaque is a pressed wood.  Great for creating some Mixed-Media art! 

This art piece was inspired by the Stencils… Hope, Love, and Faith. 

I started with the pressed wood piece and troweled on my favorite product, Texture Medium.  Now, I always say to keep it thin because you don’t need much and it avoids excessive sanding!  But, this board wasn’t completely level and I was having an issue getting a complete print from the roller.  So… I actually put on more Texture Medium (than I would normally use) and it solved the issue!  There are times you need to have the Texture Medium a little thicker… but, no one loves sanding, Ugh! More often than not, you will want to go with the “thin wins” application, other than this instance 🙂

Trowel on a layer of the Texture Medium as thin as you can, maybe somewhere between 1/16” to 1/8” and while it’s wet, you want to roll the roller pattern through it.  I used the Mermaid Tail pattern for this project.  Once the Texture Medium is dry, you will need to sand off the “high’s” that the rollers create and sand down as much you personally desire (it may depend on what you are working on).  I brushed and wiped it clean after all the sanding and then I was ready for some paint.

I actually painted the sign and the frame with General Finishes Fjord Blue, two coats, allowing dry time in between.  Once the paint was dry, I applied a layer of Foil Adhesive to the entire frame and allowed this to set-up for at least 30 minutes or longer.  When the Foil Adhesive was at a dry firm tack, I was ready to transfer my foil.  I used Bright Silver foil and cut it into manageable stripes.  Placing one piece at a time and transferring the foil to the surface.  I first used just a terry rag to rub the back-side of the foil and if that wasn’t enough transfer, then I used a scrub brush.  I transferred foil to the frame one-side at a time until it was complete.  Because I allowed some of the Fjord Blue to “peak” through and not have 100% coverage, I still felt the foil adhesive’s stickiness.  In this case, I would apply one to two coats of my favorite top coat (make sure to test sheens) and then the frame is done. 

Getting back to our art piece, the next thing I did was to figure out the positioning of the stencils.  I stenciled them in Metallic Silver by Modern Masters and used a dry-brush technique for the stenciling. 

Then I had to get out a little more “bling” and decided to use my Glass Bead Gel, Silver Glass Glitter, and Silver Glitter to emboss the Bali Flower Stencil.  I positioned the stencils to my desired location and used the Color Shaper Tool to spread the Glass Bead Mixture over the stencil design. 

I hope you enjoyed this project as much as I did. I would love to hear what you think I should create next. Always feel free to email me at jennifer@artisticpaintingstudio.com with any questions or suggestions you may have 🙂

Project Materials:

• Texture Medium
• Mermaid Tail Roller
• Trowels
• Foil Adhesive
• Foils
• Word Stencils
• Bali Flower Stencil
• Glass Bead Gel
• Glitter
• Color Shaper Tool
• General Finishes Paint