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Inspiration

The Old Oak Table

Here is the story behind my “new” dining room table.  This table has been in my family for about 60 years!!!  My parents bought this table shortly after they were married and I grew up at this table, enjoying some fabulous meals, as well as some tough meals that I didn’t think were so fabulous (sorry Mom!). I was a picky eater and just didn’t like a lot of food growing up, so some of those meals were not my favorite. HAHA!

But there are some great memories with this table for me and I’m so glad that my Mom finally let me have it. It took her a couple years to part ways with it and give it to me, but she finally did!

It is a solid oak table and really heavy, so the boys have done all the moving.  I started my process with the help of Hunter, getting this heavy thing moved out to the alley for a good sanding and clean-up!  I will have to admit, as I started sanding the top of the table I decided to leave some of the marks/memories.  Most of these were created by my sister and me, and with my sister already gone, I decided that our marks/scratches/memories were going to remain.  This way when someone makes a new one, it will just fit in with all the history of the table.

While growing up, the table was usually in the 54″ round. I sure don’t remember using the leafs too many times, but with my large family, I decided to max the area the table would be and add as many leaves as possible.  This table is rather large, but it is nice to have room for everyone and then some!!

As always, this baby was primed with my favorite primer, XIM Bonding Primer. One full coat on all sections of the table, leaves, and base.

At first, I thought I was going to use two different colors and blend as I was painting, but I have to admit I didn’t like the way it was coming out. So I just mixed the two colors together and created a custom color.  The colors I used are from the DIY Paint collection: Weathered Wood and Black Velvet (approximately 70/30).  This custom color was painted on all sections with two complete coats.

Once the base painting was complete, it was time to have some fun with one of my newest stencils: Passionate Paisley.  I wanted the stenciling to be somewhat faded and uneven, a little more old and worn look.  This was accomplished with the DIY Paint Black Velvet and one of my 1″ Stencil brushes.  I also used some Extender to keep the paint moving smoothly.  I tried to keep an uneven hand, which is harder than it sounds when using the DIY Paint because it dries lighter, so it was hard to determine if I had enough color or not until it was dry.

I also ordered a couple of custom stencil Bible Verses for the “skirt” of the table.  I had enough room to have two different verses created, one on each end.  “Say What Stencils” created these for me, so that I could choose the font style and size I was needing for this specific project.  This makes lettering way easier than writing something out letter by letter.  I used American DecoArt Acrylic Paints Ion Laguna for the Bible Verses.

These stencils are a little different to work with because they are a one-time-use stencil.  They are cut out of masking material and the vinyl stencil is sandwiched between a backing and a clear vinyl material. It’s best to watch my video for complete detailed instructions on how to install these. But you basically tape it into position, remove the backing material, smooth down onto your surface area and then very carefully remove the top clear vinyl leaving the stencil in position to paint. Just watch the video below for a complete walk-through on this!

The base of the table was painted in Black Velvet for a slight contrast to the table top, then I applied several layers of top coat to protect all of the stenciling and color.  I used the Final Coat Low-Gloss and did about 8 to 10 layers, I lost count!! This is an easy-to-use wipe-on varnish that is hard and durable. The more layers the more durable it becomes and this is a dining room table that is used every day for several meals, so I wanted to make sure it would hold up.

This table was such a fun project for me and I am so glad I get to sit at a piece of history with so many memories each day! Can’t wait for the next family piece I get to do next!

List of Materials:

DIY Paint

XIM Bonding Primer

Stencil Brushes

Stencils

Final Coat

 

 

Painted Chairs – An Addiction

So I wrote a book!! YES, I have written a couple of books actually!!  Painted Chairs was my first book and I have a total obsession with painting them!!

I had been painting chairs for a while and actually did a segment on the Carol Duvall Show with one of my chairs (this is how the book idea started).  Everyone is assigned to a producer when you are a guest on the show and my producer suggested that I write a book on my chairs.  Honestly, I had never thought to write a book at this point and I’m not sure I would have thought to write a book on painted chairs ever! LOL!

But the idea had been planted and the lead to a publisher had been provided!  Now, to somehow land the “book deal” meant really getting their attention and what better way than to send them a chair!!  I’m sure no one had ever sent them a painted chair before and how could they ignore me if I did that.  Well, it worked!! I got their attention and landed my first book deal!

You talk about exciting!! WOW!! I landed a book deal!!

But, now it was time to start painting and writing and painting and writing.  I really do love the painting more than the writing, but once you get in the grove, the words seem to flow better.

Painting the chairs was so much fun and they really started to take on a personality of their own.  I loved figuring out the design and color palette and putting them all together.  This book really shows a variety of style, colors and patterns!!!

Painted Chairs is no longer in print, but you can pick up a copy on Amazon! It may be used but still a great book full of inspiration!

I have also inspired many others to paint chairs! I have hosted several classes at my studio for creatives to make & paint their own chairs.

Go find yourself a chair or two and have some fun!!

Art brushes

Acrylic Paints

Painted Chairs book

Stencils

 

Hammered Metal Drawers – Hometalk Live Demo!

My great find – the Hutch base!

So here is the picture of the Hutch that I’m working on – this is the before picture.  The drawers were never painted, but someone has a love with “Pledge” and I felt it was best to sand it all off – paint and all!!!

Here are my drawers all nice and sanded – ready for a fabulous Hammered Metal Finish!!!

So let’s get started with my favorite primer XIM Bonding Primer – one layer should do the job and then allow to dry.

Next, I taped off the center raised panel and was ready for the next step.  I applied a thin layer of my ArtsSyVille Embellishments Texture Medium – you only need it to be about 1/8″ to 1/16″ thick – just enough to get the print of the roller.  I used a trowel to apply the medium, but you can use a hotel room key, styrene applicator, putty knife, or anything that you can get the product onto the surface.

While the Texture Medium is wet – you need to roll through it with the Fauxy Roller Ostrich Pattern.  I rolled through twice to get a pitted/hammered metal look – allow the texture to dry (this can take several hours – but make sure it is completely dry).

Once the texture has dried – you will want to sand down the high peaks – I used 150 grit sandpaper. Remove the tape and clean up the edges if necessary.  Wipe down to remove all the dust and make sure the surface is clean.

The next step is to paint the surface with Modern Masters Antique Copper Metallic Paint – I applied two layers allowing each layer to dry in between.  Metallics can be a little soft – so it’s best to allow the paint to dry overnight before applying the glaze layer.

Next we are going to create a glaze – I used Modern Masters Wall Glaze and Modern Masters Glazing Colors Van Dyke Brown.  My favorite recipe is 1 cup of glaze to 3 tbls of Van Dyke Brown – this creates a nice balanced glaze.

Apply the glaze over the painted surface – 100% coverage and then use Cheesecloth to remove the excess glaze leaving behind enough to get into the details of the wood and texture.  You can remove as much of the glaze as you would like or leave as much behind – it’s a personal thing.

Allow the glaze to dry overnight (at least) glaze can take a good 24 hours to dry completely.  Then make sure to apply at least several layers of Top Coat to protect the finish.

Supplies used for this project:

XIM Bonding Primer (Buy Here)

ArtsSyVille Embellishments – Texture Medium

Fauxy Rollers – Ostrich Skin Roller

Sandpaper 150 to 220 grit

Modern Masters Metallic Paint – Antique Copper

Modern Masters Wall Glaze

Modern Masters Glazing Colors – Van Dyke Brown

Cheesecloth

Application tool – Trowel, room key, putty knife, etc.

Top coat of your choice

 

Hope that you enjoyed this project!

Blessings,

Decorative Signs: Stenciling Techniques

Some of the decorative signs I started painting with dry brushing techniques and stamping rollers in the previous post are ready for stenciling! I am going to do two different techniques, a dry brush stencil and a foil transfer. See the previous posts in this series: Base Coats and Adding Texture.

On two signs I’m going to dry brush stencil the words “Love” and “Faith.”

You will need:
Word Stencils (Stencil Garden #877)
Stencil Brushes
Paint
Tape
Rulers

Dry Brush Technique:
Start by centering your stencil on your work. Using two quilters rulers which are see-through, one on each side, can help center the stencil easily by allowing you to just move the stencil until the distance from each side is the same. Once you’re happy with the centering left and right, center from top to bottom and then tape down the stencil.

Wet your stencil brush with paint, then swirl on to a foam plate or palette, then dry it again on paper towel. It might seem like you’re taking all the paint off the brush, but this is what you want to keep the sharp lines of your stencil. Use this dry brush to stipple or pounce the color into the void of your stencil. Stencil brushes are round with a blunt cut and have stiff bristles which is necessary for traditional stenciling technique.

You can choose to pounce on the color or swirl it on, but a light color over dark surface will work better with the pounce instead of swirl. You can check on your coverage by lifting up a corner of the stencil, making sure to hold the stencil in place with one hand. Chalk paints will dry lighter, so keep that in mind, but also you can’t keep going back over it or you’ll start to remove some of the paint. You will need to let it dry before doing a second coat.

I used Modern Masters Silver Metallic Paint for the word Faith. I used the same technique as with the word Love, putting a bit of paint on my plate and swirling it into the brush and then wiping it on a paper towel before pouncing it into the stencil areas.

Now these signs just need some time to dry, then I’ll put on a finish coat to protect my work.

 

 

 

On a third sign I’m going to put the word “Hope” on it with decorative foil. Hope is always something good to have! This board was first finished with a diamond pattern and stamping roller which creates a really great textured background.

You will need:
Stencils (Stencil Garden #877)
Foil Adhesive
Foil
Stencil Brush
Scissors

Tip: My ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive is simple to clean up, water soluble. Your stencil will get some adhesive on it during this process, but it will wash off easily.

Start by centering your stencil and taping it down. Using the foil adhesive and a stencil brush, pounce on the adhesive through the stencil. Keep the brush rather dry so the adhesive will not bleed under the stencil. Stipple the foil adhesive over the stencil twice to make sure it has good coverage.

The foil adhesive will wash off with water, don’t worry that you’re ruining your stencil!

Remove stencil carefully, and give the adhesive time to dry. Don’t rush to transfer. With the foil adhesive you aren’t limited to a window of time. You can leave it for days and even weeks before transferring the foil!

Once your adhesive has had enough time to dry, use scissors to cut your foil to size. With the metallization on the back, lay the foil over your project. Using a soft cloth, rub the foil and then pull back just a part to take a peek at your work.

If you want to transfer a lot of foil, use a scrubber brush. You can control how much foil is transferred by varying the pressure you use on the brush. Once you’re happy with the amount of transfer, peel off the film. Top coats are a must when foils have been used to protect the finish and cover any adhesive that hasn’t adhered to foil.

I hope you have enjoyed this series of projects! As always, we love to see what you’ve made with metallic foils and stamping rollers!

Decorative Signs Project Series:
1. Base Coats
2. Adding Texture
3. Stenciling Techniques

 

 

Decorative Signs Project: Adding Texture

This is the second in a series on decorative signs. See the first post here: Base Coats.

Another option for adding texture to a project is by using texture medium and stamping rollers. Continuing work on the Decorative Signs that I started in my previous post, I’m going to make two more that have a raised texture background to add interest.

You will need:
ArtsSyVille Texture Medium
Mini Trowel
Stamping Rollers
Board
Chalk Paint
ArtsSyVille Foil Adhesive
Metallic Foils

Apply Texture Medium:
You don’t need to do anything to prep your board, you can put ArtsSyVille Texture Medium right on top of bare wood. It has really good bonding, so you can skip priming. I have two mini trowels I like to use for this, one is 4.5” and the other is 6.75” both are great sizes for small projects like this.

The texture medium is lightweight and creamy. I just use a stirring stick to put some on my project and then use the trowels to smooth it out. Use just just a slight angle when pulling the trowel across and work to minimize lines in the medium. You can also control the pressure of the trowel to get the desired depth of product. It doesn’t need to be thick! One sixteenth to one eighth of an inch is enough for the stamping roller to imprint in it.

Once you have the texture medium covering your board, use your trowel to remove excess product to get it down smooth. Clean up the edges, I just use my finger to do this, and then you’re ready to roll.

 

Tip: The texture medium could also be put down with a brush, that would create a texture because the brush lines will be visible.

 

Using the stamping roller to create texture:
I’m using the “Between the Vines” roller on one of my boards. Just roll your chosen stamping roller down the project, slow and steady. If you aren’t happy with the first try, trowel it out and do it again!  I centered three of the vines on the “Between the Vines” stamp across the length of the board and then rolled it again through the width to create a box pattern. I just eyeballed the spacing, but I think it turned out pretty great!

Use your finger to clean up the edges of your project. Once the texture medium dries, you would need to sand down any of these rough edges, so it’s much easier to take care of it while it’s still wet.

You will need to do some sanding on the design once it has dried to clean up any peaks and ridges. A smooth finish is critical when going back over the project with stencils or foils.

On another board I’m going to use one of my favorites, a diamond pattern that creates a linear elongated diamond shape.

The texture medium will take a few hours to dry, then you can sand it to take care of the peaks that are made when rolling the pattern rollers through the texture medium.

Adding design with a stamping roller:
When the texture medium on the board with the diamond shape was dry and sanded down, I painted it, then I added a little more interest with a stamping roller. I used Debi’s DIY Paints in Seaglass with a Chrysanthemum pattern roller.

 

 


Decorative Signs Project Series:
1. Base Coats
2. Adding Texture
3. Stenciling Techniques

Decorative Signs Project: Base Coats

 

Creating your own statement signs is a great way to experiment with different texture techniques and try out different roller designs. Inexpensive wood planks are used so the imperfections can be highlighted with paint to create a rustic, distressed feel.

I’ve used a color palette in shades of blue to give just a little bit of depth to the background while allowing the words I’ve stenciled on top to pop. When using chalk paint, allow each layer to dry thoroughly before moving on to the next color, so this project will take a couple hours to complete.

You will need:
Boards, pine is inexpensive and has texture
Chalk Paints, I recommend DIY Paint by Debi’s Design Diary
Art Wash Brushes
Domed Brushes
Spray Bottle of Water
Cheesecloth
Foam plate or palette
Paper Towels
Tray
Glad Press n Seal

Base Coat:
Cover the edges and front of your board in a single color. I like using Art Wash brushes for this because they pull and push the paint easily, allowing the finish to come together smoothly, even over the uneven surface of the wood. Allow this coat of paint to dry. The two base colors I have chosen are Hey Sailor and Mermaid Tail.

Dry Brushing:
This technique pulls out the texture and imperfections of your board and really gives depth to your finished piece. Dry brushing is best done with a domed brush or any stiff bristle brush. These brushes have stiffer bristles in a flat domed shape. They can stand a bit of pressure and won’t lose hair in the process. Brushes that are too soft won’t move the paint around well, you just want it to grab on to bits of the surface.

Start by dipping your brush in the paint and then swirl the paint on to a palette or foam plate. Really work it in. Then rub the brush on a paper towel. You want to make sure it’s dry. Now you can start working the paint over the surface of your piece.  Dry brushing is just meant to “highlight” the surface and create depth/texture.  I’ve used a combination of three colors on top of the background during this dry brushing stage. I chose colors in the blue family, but also a warm red, which when mixed with the background color creates a nice purple tone.

Keep your brush dry. The drier the brush, the more control you will have over the color. As each layer of paint dries, the texture will stand out more and you can decide if you want to keep going.

TIP: Try taking a picture of your work and evaluating the photo. You’ll get a different view that can help you decide to keep working or move on to the next step!

Once you have worked in your mix of colors, wet a piece of cheesecloth with a spray bottle of water and rub it lightly over your piece to blend the colors. Any areas you aren’t happy with can be rubbed out in this same way. Let your dry brushed layer dry.

Adding design with a stamping roller:
Stamping rollers create a continuous design that can really add interest to your project. Our stamping rollers are 7” wide which covers a standard plank of wood with a bit of room to spare, making this a perfect first project to get comfortable with the stamping roller.

I like to cover a cafeteria tray with Press n Seal wrap and use this to load the foam part of the roller. It makes clean up really easy! Pour a bit of paint onto your tray and spread it out with a brush. Before loading the foam part of your roller, give the roller a quick spritz of water from your spray bottle. Not enough to soak it, but this bit of moisture will help the roller pick up the paint.

TIP: If your roller has spots that didn’t get completely loaded, use a brush to go over those areas of the foam

I keep the foam roller in the outermost holes while loading, moving it back when I’m ready to add the pattern roller. When your foam roller is ready to go, move it to the inner set of holes so your pattern stamp can be placed on the outside. Give the pattern roller a few rolls on a clean sheet of paper to transfer the paint to the design. Now you’re ready to carefully roll your design across the plank. I chose colors that create a tone-on-tone feel for the background of my signs. Nothing with too much contrast so it doesn’t take away from the words which I will stencil on later.

Let this layer of paint dry and then it will be ready to stencil!

Decorative Signs Project Series:
1. Base Coats
2. Adding Texture
3. Stenciling Techniques